In 2005, Madonna released Confessions on the Dance Floor. That same year London based independent fashion brand BOUDICCA gifted Madonna Look#3 The Pointed Shirt Dress. Two years later, this design was replicated by Madonna through H&M design collaboration M by Madonna. Through the pattern outline it is possible to see that the original Look#3, ThePointed Shirt Dress was drawn in 3 Dimensions. The pattern has been raised from and through the idea, characterised by bold expressions & decisions; the final sleeve sharp like a pencil stroke. A sculpted meticulously crafted dress made with curiosity. In opposition M by Madonna we see that depth is flattened, characterised by pointless constructions, ungracious straightness. Every part of the pattern is muted. The malign H&M version is a mass-produced 2D pattern item devoid of the nuanced vision and craftsmanship of its predecessor. M by Madonna is overcomplicated using out of date princess lines for shape from old fashioned block patterns; all the consequence of a designed dress having to fit into a predetermined industrial manufacturing system; one that would disturb the system as least as possible. A dress that was never fit to a body.

Photo credits: David Dumitrescu