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  • An exploration to integrate pliable textile and rigid metal properties within hybrid self-supporting woven forms using selective finishing

White, Hannah Jayne, 2019, Thesis, An exploration to integrate pliable textile and rigid metal properties within hybrid self-supporting woven forms using selective finishing PhD thesis, Royal College of Art.

Abstract or Description:

This practice-based research aims to integrate and control pliable anisotropic textile
properties with rigid isotropic metal properties in self-supporting three-dimensional
woven forms. When constructing self-supporting form using textiles, the drape and
pliability can become compromised, for example, when placed under high tensile
force, or a rigid finishing process is applied. This inquiry aims to improve the
integration and control of the pliability and rigidity within metallised woven hybrid
self-supporting forms.
The methodology uses woven textile design methods and thinking, combined with
industrial textile production and engineering techniques, to form integrated cognitive
problem-solving spaces during practice-based experimentation and reflection. The
design and making of the woven textiles are inextricably linked with the finishing
process. This extends Seitamaa-Hakkarainen and Hakkarainen's (2001) dual-space
parallel processing to incorporate a third specific thinking space: finishing. This is
described as a Design-make Tri-space that is used as a research framework when
problem-solving during this material investigation. My research question explores
my hypothesis that using an experienced weaver’s parallel processing method could
offer an alternative finishing technique to previous metallisation of textiles. This
approach simultaneously considers the composition and construction of a woven
textile with the finishing process. In my collaboration with industry a second
research framework was used: Tri-space Roles. The roles of academic researcher,
designer collaborating with industry and apprentice were integrated to become one
interconnected role.
Three case studies demonstrate how using different making and finishing
sequences control and refine the properties of the hybrid forms. Qualitative haptic
interaction was used to evaluate the relationship between the pliable fabric and the
rigidity created by the finishing process. This research contributes new knowledge to
the metallisation of textiles by establishing a new making process that enables the
control of selective finishing on anisotropic woven textiles. It also proposes that the
Design-make Tri-space and the Tri-space Roles problem-solving approaches are
frameworks that facilitate parallel processing. These method frameworks have the
potential to be modified and used by other design researchers using alternative
textile processes, such as knit or embroidery, or other materials focused disciplines,
such ceramics or glass.

Qualification Name: PhD
Subjects: Other > Technologies > J400 Polymers and Textiles > J420 Textiles Technology
School or Centre: School of Design
Date Deposited: 25 Jun 2019 11:41
Last Modified: 25 Jun 2019 11:41
URI: http://researchonline.rca.ac.uk/id/eprint/3953

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