This series of thermo-moulded relief layered fabrics was created for Yves Saint Laurent’s 2009–10 Winter Collection.
The thermo-moulding process was adapted from technology used by the automotive industry for vehicle interiors. Developments included extending the range of fabrics and fabric combinations (including flannel and silk), exploring the possibilities of using other materials (particularly leathers) and increasing the size of the thermo-moulding equipment in order to produce sufficient material to make large garments. Wanting more than the limited range of aesthetic qualities required by vehicle manufacturers, Avella exploited the process to create new lightweight ‘sandwiched’ thermo-bonded composite fabrics with a permanent relief-textured surface. These technologies had never previously been applied in a fashion context.
The intensive six-month research process started with the production of test pieces of relief fabric using thermo-moulding vacuum formers. This led to the development of completely new, larger pattern formers. The conclusion was the creation of runs of fabrics large enough to support the commercial production of garments and accessories for the Winter Collection. Development was iterative, responding to the potential of earlier test pieces and, during the later stages, following liaison with garment designers and pattern cutters. The resulting composite fabrics allowed for the creation of pieces that were lightweight while being capable of maintaining a strongly structured form.
The fabrics were a key element of the designs shown in Yves Saint Laurent’s 2009–10 Winter Collection during Paris Fashion Week and featured heavily in the associated advertising campaign. International press editorials specifically referenced the materials created by Avella, for example: ‘The show opened with black leather, some of it textured with thermo-molding technology borrowed from the car industry…the material was mainly used to construct sleek, though not too close-fitting, pieces’ (Sarah Mower, style.com, 2009: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2009RTW-YSLRG).